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August 10, 2009

Reflections on Ghana

Kristen Walling I just spent this past semester studying abroad in Ghana. Now that I'm back, I'm trying to figure out how to answer the million dollar question: "So, how was it?"

I sincerely wish I could answer that question in a sentence, or even in an hour, but I have no idea where to begin. Should talk about the food, or the friends I made, or what it was like to constantly stick out? Or what about the day I accidentally crossed a border incorrectly and spent seven hours negotiating in another language with authorities? Or the time I sat on a camel that refused to go anywhere?

Before I left, people kept telling me how studying abroad was going to change my life. I think I, too, was expecting to suddenly have a new perspective on U.S.-African relations and understand how so many others around the world live. And while I had many memorable experiences, I've been having trouble figuring out how to talk about the ways I have been changed.

While I was there, I read Somebody's Heart is Burning, a travel memoir by Tanya Shaffer, who spent a year volunteering in Ghana and traveling through other West African countries. I loved the book because many of Schaffer's experiences so closely matched my own and because she put into words the thoughts I found myself unable to articulate on so many occasions. A particular section that has stuck with me is Schaffer's account of her journey up the Niger River. She befriended a man who had no shoes, while she herself had two pairs of boots on the journey. The man kept asking for one of the pairs, and though she wrestled with her decision for some time, she ultimately chose not to grant his wish. She later reflected on the exchange:

    It struck me, then, that the only changes we humans are capable of are small ones. You can beat yourself up for years, wishing you could be kinder, happier, more decisive and secure. And then one day you realize you've made a slight shift, moved your inner lens a fraction of an inch to this side or that. Not a whole new self, a remade identity, just a little change in perspective. A loosening, really, an out-breath, a drop of acceptance in the salty ocean of the soul. You haven't solved everything, maybe you haven't solved anything, but if you're lucky, that small shift will be the difference between holding your life in grace and simply holding on.
I don't think I could more accurately describe my own feelings about my semester. I certainly made plenty of my own mistakes. There were times that I was so tired of trying to learn cultural norms that I gave up and let my American ideals trump everything else. There were also times that no matter how hard I was trying, I still managed to offend somebody. Even in my very last week, after four and a half months, I found myself in an awkward situation with several American and Ghanaian friends, trying to figure out who was supposed to be paying for dinner. Sometimes I think back and laugh at these moments, and sometimes I want to kick myself for being so unaware of expectations.

I guess Schaffer's words remind me that it's okay to be disappointed in our decisions sometimes, as long as we use those choices as lessons of how to change for the better. I think that's something that helps make a great leader, too: the ability to gracefully make mistakes, reflect on them, and move forward with a slight shift in perspective. I hope I can remember that as I continue to grow as a leader on campus, in my church, in my community, and in the world.


Kristen's previous stories:
Kristen Walling is in her third year as a HELM Leadership Fellow and is a member of Disciples Christian Church (Disciples of Christ) in Cleveland Heights, Ohio.
Shaffer, Tanya. Somebody's Heart Is Burning: A Woman Wanderer in Africa. New York: Vintage, 2003.


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